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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.